Category: Travelogue

We saw people hiking close to the Park road – that probably was the safest area for hiking. There are boards in certain places that indicate not to hike for up to 5 miles because it is a restricted wildlife area. The boards state that photography and observation are permitted only from the road, with no hiking off the road. 

The weather change

Otherwise, for the most part, all areas are open for hiking – in fact, it seems that compared to other national parks, this one is where you are encouraged to go on your own path rather than predefined trails – but the predefined trails do help newcomers.

It’s a longer stop for the bus at mile 43, but the rain had picked up. Raghav and I wanted to go on a short hike. And in the visitor centre, they said that at mile 43, there will be a ranger, and there are steps leading down to a short trail. We thought doing a trail in this area would be safer, considering that a ranger would be available nearby. But except for me, no one had clothing for the rain; even Rakesh brought on an extra layer for the cold, but not for the rain. And he was also wearing shorts – not a good choice in windy conditions, especially for a hike. I happened to be carrying my raincoat everywhere, as it was the only jacket I had brought to the US!

“The rain will make the ground slippery too.”
And none of us were in hiking shoes either. We took a few snaps in the place (the East Fork is the name of the river that flows by mile 43) and headed back to the bus. Because of the weather, no one from our bus stepped off anywhere for a hike. Even the family sitting behind us wanted to go on a trail, but they also decided against it. The strong breeze also made it feel really chilly, and everyone was happy to get back inside the warmth and dryness of the bus. 

There wasn’t much commentary on the return ride, but we saw a few people wanting to hop into the bus. These were hikers who had arrived earlier in the day and wanted to catch a ride back to the bus depot. Since none of the passengers inside had stepped out of the bus, there was minimal space in ours – we had to leave behind the folks at the bus stop for subsequent buses to pick them up. There was one solo hiker who got in, and then in another stop, a couple hopped in – they said they saw a few caribou, a couple of moose and a brown grizzly bear at a distance. They did have binoculars, and they even had the hiking poles.
“We hiked up to the top of a mountain and then had to walk one and a half hours to get to the bus stop. And we also had to wait for a bus with empty seats.”

It takes about 4.5 hours to ride up and down the whole route. It’s a nice ride – but the best part of course would be if you did step out and venture into the wild – and this is wilderness for acres. But got to be prepared for it – the right gear (layers for the cold and something for rain), the right shoes and bear spray. Being in a group is beneficial, but there were also solo hikers out here. Mobile tower signals are quite patchy, so you can’t rely on making phone calls in case of any issue. And if you plan to hike beyond mile 14, then you may find yourself in a situation where you have to wait for 2 or 3 buses before you can find a bus with a vacant seat. Bear spray isn’t needed if you are staying on the bus and just stepping out in the designated rest areas. A good set of binoculars would be handy, along with hiking shoes that give you grip on wet terrain. For first-timers, the ranger-led hikes are the best option – and for that, plan for a couple of days or so, as bookings can only be made in person.

Early dinner

Around 4:30 pm, we returned to the bus depot and headed back to the gas station and convenience store area, where a row of shops and eateries was located. We hadn’t had a proper lunch, so the first priority was finding a good place for a meal – it would be an early dinner. 
“There’s a Serbian restaurant,” Raghav and Rakesh picked after checking out the menu online to see if there were vegetarian dishes.
“Moose-aka.”

The outside is a little deceiving – it’s more spacious than what you’d expect; a small bar on one side and a few tables spread across a couple of rooms. Being 5 pm, it wasn’t crowded. The host explained the entire menu and its structure, giving us time to discuss and make a decision. Their service was outstanding – when we ordered a couple of main dishes and said we’d share them, they ensured that they split them up appropriately when they served the dishes. 
“Let’s make our booking for the cruise. Our plans depend on when we get the cruise.”
With patchy mobile connections, we did rely a lot on the wifi provided in many places. Rahul began researching cruise options and exploring other activities we could do.

(click images to enlarge)

Rajesh and Moorthy ordered a couple of drinks (chocolate martini and a mimosa); we did the Mekice (fried bread with a red pepper spread), vegan stuffed pepper (red bell pepper stuffed with fillings and rice), pillici pilaf (chicken pilaf), grandmother’s chocolate cake. All the dishes were good – the pepper spread was unique and yummy. We usually don’t order standard desserts, like chocolate cake, but here, we went for it based on the description in the menu for the grandma’s chocolate cake – and it turned out to be a very different chocolate cake from anything we’ve had because it was loaded with a lot of things in addition to chocolate – brazil nuts, almonds, coffee beans, coconut cream, peanut butter. Bill came to around $150. Good food, amazing service, and uniquely decorated interiors – even their bathroom is styled differently!

We still hadn’t done the cruise booking. But we didn’t want to occupy the seats in the restaurant, and so we stepped out. The restaurant’s wifi worked outside as well for a little distance – Raghav and I sat in the car to make our cruise bookings.
“On the 26th, we can do the glacier hiking. 27th we can do the cruise. Cruise stars in the morning and will be done by late in the afternoon.”
Our flight was on the 27th, late in the evening.

“So in Seward we’ll stay tomorrow night and the 26th night. Check-in on 25th and check-out on 27th,” Rakesh confirmed as he narrowed down the choice of accommodation to a couple of places. After discussions, he made the booking.
Rahul went around checking on river rafting. In the line of highway stores, you had a few of the activity operators with their own stalls as well, so we checked if there was anything possible between now and the ATV ride at night. But the earliest options available were for tomorrow afternoon.
“That would mean we can only leave Denali late in the evening on 25th and so we’d reach Seward early morning of 26th.”
“It’s a long ride too – may not then be able to do much on 26th.”
We dropped river rafting from the list, for now at least!

This really isn’t the way you want to be doing these trips, but in a way, this was fun – no idea where we’d spend the next day or what we’d be doing tomorrow till late at night!

Around 9:50 am, we headed back to our lodge after picking the bus tickets; there is a park visitors fee that is charged as well but since we had paid for this as part of the glacier flight landing, we were able to show that receipt and avoid paying again – that visitors pass is valid for 5 or 7 days; so you can time your activities appropriately. Today was bright and sunny as we returned on the same highway with Rakesh and Raghav. 

Bears

Before returning to the bus depot, we stopped near the Denali convenience store to pick up some water and food. I also picked up the bear spray can. It was about 11:20 am when we reached the bus depot. Folks used the restroom while we waited for the gate to open. I saw a notice that said “Be prepared for bear encounters”. 

Denali is home to both black bears and grizzly bears. Black bears have a flat back, a longer nose, and more prominent ears, while grizzly bears have a prominent hump and a dish-shaped face. Some tips mentioned – bears may perceive us as a threat if we startle them; watch out for bear tracks and poop; give space for bears with a minimum distance of 300 yards which is the length of 3 football fields; if the bear is unaware of you, then take detour and walk away quietly; back away slowly if the bear is aware of you while speaking in a low calm voice while waving your arms above your head; bears that stand on their hind legs are not threatening but just observing and trying to identify you; if a bear approaches or charges at you, don’t run since they can outrun us and don’t drop your pack; bears may charge and then stop some 10 feet away from you or veer off (called a bluff charge); but dropping the pack may interest the bear in approaching you for food; wave arms above your head to appear large and talk to the bear; wait till the bear moves away, and then back off slowly. If a grizzly makes contact with you, play dead – curl into a ball, leave your pack on your back; in the case of a black bear making contact, fight back, it said.

Reminded me of the phrase our colleague told us before the trip – “If it’s brown lie down; if it’s black fight back.” In fact everything on this board was a recap of what he had told us.

Bear spray

A staff member was standing outside the bus, checking tickets before letting folks into the long green Denali Park bus. He said that those with tickets for other time slots can also get in, but only if there is availability after the folks for the current timeslot have boarded. 
“No bear spray in the open. Keep it inside your bag.”
My bear spray was still inside the packaging and not even opened yet!
Someone asked, “Is bear spray just a pepper spray?”
The staff replied, “I had the chance to walk into bear spray while someone was testing it, and I can tell you that it’s not just pepper. And it wasn’t good either. There’s some chemical along with pepper.”

The driver provided commentary as he started the bus.
“There are window seats empty at the back. Folks can spread out and occupy them.”
The bus windows were such that you could open the top part of the window.
“As we go along, you may spot animals. If anyone spots one, then just shout out so that I’ll stop the bus, and everyone can get to see it.”
This isn’t the narrated tour ride, but even here, there was a little narration along the way, which was sort of nice, especially if you are a first-time visitor. There were some Denali stories that the driver recollected, including some that were a reminder to beware of the territory we were in – this isn’t a zoo with animals in cages.
“There was a person who stopped his vehicle to get photos of a moose. And he went really close to get a snap. The moose charged at him and knocked him out.”
Yeah, even moose can be dangerous.

And then we had our first halt. A single caribou on the river – this was the same place that we were at last night, the last point for private vehicles. 
Rajesh said, “It’s like a deer.”
A slightly bigger version of the Indian deer that many of us would have seen in India; these are better adapted to live through the harsh winter.
There’s a checkpoint at mile 14 where a park ranger got in and sang a jingle – a different way to deliver a message on coexisting with nature and not feeding wildlife. The driver said that they also take count of the visitors entering.

In Denali, you will hear about something called the “Pretty rocks landslide”. The Denali park road (the only road running through the park) is about 90 miles long. However, due to the landslide, access is now only available up to mile 43. The landslide has been active for decades, but was so far manageable with road maintenance work that kept happening to ensure the buses could still ply on it. But in 2021 or so, it was noticed that the road in the landslide section was moving more than half an inch every hour! And that’s when they closed off the road. 
Each time the bus stopped, everyone would look around to see what it was.
“There.”
“Where?”
“Over there, just near the trees.”
It was a small bird that had crossed the road along with a bunch of baby birds.
Later, someone shouted to stop. It was a moose – moose are much larger than caribou; they are significantly muscular. But just then there was another green bus coming from the opposite direction – they were even more closer to the moose, and they also stopped since they had spotted it as well. It did hinder our view, and we had to move on.

There was a family of four sitting near us – the parents were elderly, but the woman, I suppose, was a professional photographer. She took some great shots in the short moments that we had, and I would look at her camera’s viewfinder to figure out which direction I should look in to get the view. 
We did carry some snacks and so munched on biscuits and chips throughout the ride.
“If you want to get off anywhere on the way for a hike, just let me know,” the driver announced.

And while hiking, they stressed the importance of leaving no trail, so no food or garbage should be left along the way. 
Denali National Park is some 9000 square miles huge – that’s a lot of territory for wildlife, and so you may not be lucky to see a lot since there’s only a tiny part of the park that the road goes up to.

After an hour into the ride, we had our first restroom break at the Teklanika rest stop – it was a nice breakout area. And Teklanika is a river that flows near this place. What seemed like a bright and sunny day had suddenly turned into a rainy one within an hour! My rain jacket came in handy; not many were prepared for this sudden change in weather and had to run between shelters to get to the restrooms.

The unofficial state bird, the driver would joke, in Alaska is the mosquito! The next and final stop was at mile 43.

It was almost 9:30 am.
“We’ll need time to pick them up and come back.”
“It will take an hour. Earliest bus may be the 11 am one that we can make.”
“Let’s go to the visitor centre also and then take a call. We know the bus timings.”
The centre is a 5-minute drive from the bus depot. 
There were already a couple of people in front of us waiting to talk to the receptionists. While waiting, I noticed a notice on the wall regarding activities for families with kids, along with some goodies and a backpack for them. 
“Are there ranger-led hikes?”
“Yes. We do have.” The staff pulled up a book that had a page for each of the hikes planned for the next few days – the descriptions of the hikes were written by hand; probably the ranger had drafted them.
“Are they full-day hikes?”
“It will take about six hours or so overall, including going to the place and returning.”
“We have to book in advance?”
“Yeah, a couple of days earlier, you can book for them. Needs to be done in-person. Tomorrow’s is booked out. There is availability for Wednesday.”
That would mean June 26th; however, with the hike taking up a significant part of the day, it would mean we could only leave Denali late on the 26th. And the 27th is when we had to leave Alaska, so it would be cutting it too close, considering there was also the cruise. 

Note: Denali is the name of the mountain and this is contained with the Denali National Park. So usually the reference to saying ‘heading to Denali’ means ‘heading to Denali National Park’.

After calling our folks, we decided that the 11:30 transit bus is the safest time to pick.
“We can spend some 20 minutes here before leaving. And then pick them up and come back.”
There were a couple of short movies playing in small theatres just past the reception area, running every half hour. Further ahead was a staircase that led to a floor below, where exhibits explained the park and its wildlife, along with life-size replicas of some animals found in the state.

There was a quote that read, ‘For most of the year, Denali is defined by snow rather than mosquitoes and darkness rather than daylight.’ 

There was a dedicated section on mosquitoes as well – so mosquitoes were common in Alaska. Male mosquitoes transfer pollen from flower to flower (leads to the berries we get) while female mosquitoes also can do the same, but they also need blood to nourish their eggs. The board read, “If she bites you, you become part of the Denali food chain”! Apparently, mosquitoes are also a food source for many birds. Another board read, “The next time you swat mosquitoes, think of the birds and bears that depend on them.”

We learnt that bears used to break cooking pots and cans for food; and so in Denali, they created Bear Resistant Food Containers (BRFCs) in the 1980s, which led to a dip in food theft by bears. It also ensures that the people carrying the food are safe and not attacked by bears that would be attracted by the smell of food.

Everything in nature is interconnected – there’s something called ‘lichen’ – which grows on trees and rocks; it’s a symbiotic relationship between algae and fungus – fungus provides a structure for the algae to grow, while the algae makes food for the fungus! Animals in this part of the world look to consume a lot of protein in the non-winter months; lichen has 5% protein, and caribou (reindeer) produce an enzyme lichenase that enables them to extract the full 5% of protein!  

With a long winter season here, vegetation is slow-growing, and they explained why you won’t see large animals in every corner – they require a lot of food – greenery or smaller animals. 

The Athabaskans were the first inhabitants of Alaska – the first people in Alaska arrived from Asia 14,000 years ago, towards the end of the ice age. The Athabaskans revered bears, believing in their spiritual powers. They were hunted but only after elaborate rituals, and the spear wasn’t thrown at the bear as we would imagine – instead, they would keep it firm on the ground, and the charging bear would land on it. The natives made use of whatever the land provided to improve their livelihood – clothing and sleeping bags were made using animal hides, roots were used for ropes, birch bark was used for canoes and baskets, and animal bones were used for weaving. There was an exhibit explaining how every part of a moose was used for something – even the grease from their fat was used in Athabaskan ice cream! There were exhibits on gold mining as part of the gold rush in the early years – it is one of the tourist activities you will find – companies organising gold panning tours where you can learn how people used to search for gold back then. 

There is also “mushing” or dogsledding in this part of the world – makes the land more accessible in the winter months, with some places even hard to reach on snowmobiles. There are kennels established in Denali Park to provide a stock of sturdy dogs to help the park rangers during their winter patrols and help carry materials. 

You could spend longer in the visitor centre going over the exhibits – it was a nice little set-up that gave a traditional feel because of the materials used inside – a lot of wood rather than cement. 
There was a board outside the visitor centre listing some activities for the day – dog demonstrations, ranger-led hikes (today there were two, one in the morning and one in the evening, and they were shorter than the one scheduled for tomorrow), and a Geo family hour.

One thing we noticed during our drive and also in this place with the food trucks is the large number of RVs (Recreational Vehicles are large vehicles that are like a little home that you can drive around) – you get RVs on rent too; it was an option we had considered but then since no one had prior RV experience and this being in a faraway land, we didn’t try it out. You can reduce the cost of lodging, and there are dedicated places for RVs to dock as well. And you find RVs just pulling up in certain pull-out areas that are off the road for a pit stop. Within the Denali National Park too, there are RV camping grounds. There are different types of RVs – ones that you need a vehicle to tow, and others that are motorized and don’t require towing. Alaska seemed to be an RV-friendly state, which makes sense given its great scenic outdoors.

We set out to drive up to mile 14 of the Denali National park – it was a pleasant drive in the night (though it still felt like late evening since there was some daylight even at this hour); we didn’t really spot any wildlife, but it’s still a nice drive if you have a vehicle – we made Rakesh drive super slow just to see if we could spot anything. Not many people out here at night. Took us an hour. Mile 14 is where the Savage River flows, and that’s the last point in the Denali National Park up to which private vehicles are permitted. There was an RV out here, too, and we could see a couple of kids inside on what were possibly bunk beds and peeping out through the window. Their parents were sitting outside the RV. The place was breezy, and that worsened the wind chill. Even Rakesh, who was the brave one in our group in facing the cold, found it too cold and rushed back to the car. It was 11:15 pm; the sunset was visible – clear skies, orange hue, brown mountains, stones, some greenery and the water body. There were barely ten people in the area.

A notice board detailed three trails in this area – the one that was most tempting for Raghav and me was the Savage Alpine trail – it was the longest at 4 miles and marked strenuous. However, the problem was the warning on the board, which stated that ‘wildlife frequenting the area’ and that wolves were seen on June 22nd (which was yesterday) on the Alpine trail. Another note stated that bears had been spotted multiple times in the last week, advising hikers to hike in groups and carry bear spray. 

We didn’t really have a large group – Rakesh didn’t have a jacket to join; and I hadn’t purchased the bear spray, and even if I had bought it, I wouldn’t have known how to operate it – you don’t want to be using a bear spray for the first time when confronted by a bear. Also, there were no other folks around – else we could have just joined another group and tagged along. The trail looked lovely as it went uphill, but we decided it wasn’t worth the risk – better to be prepared and armed, just in case.

We returned to our lodge around 12:30 am, with no signs of any bear or wildlife in the vicinity. All of us got into our beds at 1 am – there was still a fair amount of daylight. Moorthy caught up on the cricket World Cup matches of today – there was the upset victory of Afghanistan over Australia, while India had a comfortable win.

Raghav was busy figuring out activities – ATV (All-terrain vehicle) rides, river rafting, ziplining, and fat truck rides. “ATV is there late in the night, too. We can do that tomorrow.”
Tomorrow was really today since he was referring to the 24th.
“Yeah. Bus ride will finish surely by the evening at the most. Won’t be there after 6 pm.”
“So I’ll book the ATV then. River rafting, we can decide tomorrow. Ziplining is not within the park – we can skip that. And the fat trucks are bigger buggies that can go in water.”

Monday

It was Moorthy and I who were up first again in the morning.
“We’ll go check out the Denali bus depot?”
“Yeah. Let’s find out the bus timings and plan accordingly.”
We quickly got ready, and Moorthy started the car while the other two were still sleeping. 

When we were near the bus depot, we encountered an issue with Google Maps and ended up taking a wrong turn. As we drove, we felt we were moving away from our destination, since this didn’t seem to be the same road we were on yesterday. A couple of minutes later, Google Maps rerouted us on a long path that would take 15 minutes – either follow that, or do a U-turn on this two-lane road and the destination would just be 5 minutes away. Moorthy managed to turn around by using the shoulder of the road in a stretch where the road widened. 

I thought there may not be many people out here, but the bus depot parking area was almost full! We saw some people travelling solo, while others were accompanied by family, carrying large backpacks. It seemed like everyone had come with a plan for their day in Denali, except us.

We headed to the counters in the bus depot. Compared to our previous customer care telephone experience, this was significantly better. The staff at the counter patiently explained things. We enquired about the narrated-tour option.
“That one will be a duration of around 6 hours.”
She also explained the alternative one, which wasn’t a full-narrated tour but rather a hop-on and hop-off bus – a self-guided tour. 
“Both buses go the same distance – till mile 43.” 
It’s a single road that goes through the Denali National Park.
“Up to mile 14, you can drive in your own vehicle too.”
“Yeah, we did that last night.”
“Ok. So if you are short on time, the transit bus is a better option. You can decide where you want to get off, hike and get on as well. The East Fork Transit takes 4 hours going the full distance up and down.”
There is a price difference as well between the transit option and the tour. And within the guided tours, there are a couple of them – the Denali Natural History Tour (a shorter one that focuses more on history and the landscape) and the Tundra Wilderness Tour (a longer one, which I had originally as part of my shortlist – focuses on the wildlife in the area).

“Are there specific timings for the self-guided one?”
“Yes. The timings are listed on the screen. There’s a bus every 30 minutes starting from here. So the bus ticket you take is for a specific timing, but after that, when you hop off, explore and want to hop onto a bus, you can jump into any.”
The display showed the timings as well as whether tickets were available. 
We realised that the bus depot guy we talked to yesterday was surely clueless on things – this seemed like a very systemised process in terms of timings of the buses and all.

Official page on visiting the Denali National Park: https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/visiting-denali.htm

By 5 pm, we started our drive up north towards Denali. If we could get to Denali by 6 pm, we’d be able to make it to the Denali bus depot to enquire about the bus rides for tomorrow – unlikely to make it unless we drove super fast. Rakesh was more than happy to speed away, but Moorthy was more cautious and stayed within the limits. And since the primary driver, as per the rental company, was Moorthy, Rakesh also had to slow down.
On our way to Denali was our room booking for the night in a town called Cantwell; so we decided to check out the place, and then head to Denali, which was another 30-minute drive further north. We were on a straight road – the Parks Highway; trees on the side and the mountain range visible at a distance; skies fairly clear with few clouds. Mobile signal was patchy, and you’ll have stretches where there is none.

At 7 pm, we reached Backwoods Lodge in Cantwell. To get to the office in the Lodge, it was a bumpy off-trail track from the main road for a few minutes.
“Moose Cabin is the next right. Here is the key.”

To travel on these roads it seemed like the office staff had a couple of buggies – perfect for off-roading travel.

There were several lodges clustered near the main office, but on the right, there was a single independent unit – labelled Moose Cabin, surrounded by trees; through the trees, we could see a glimpse of a couple of lodges on the office side – we were pretty isolated. The place reminded me of what you see in horror movies – a cabin in the middle of nowhere surrounded by trees!

The place was quite cosy; very compact but just about enough for 4 adults. There was only a single restroom with a wash basin. Next to the bathroom was the kitchen sink and a table. 
They had an old-style TV, which all of us tried to get working without much luck.
“Let’s check out the Denali bus depot just in case they are open.”
“Unlikely to be open. We’re an hour past closing time.”
“Yeah – but there’s also a visitor’s centre.”
As we were about to start, Moorthy said, “Some insects here. Is it a mosquito?”
“Seems big.”
We couldn’t catch a proper glimpse of it, but they did seem bigger than the Indian mosquitoes we were used to. “If they don’t bite, then it’s fine.” 
So far, no bites on anyone, and Rakesh was back at the wheel.
“Check for the next gas station,” Rakesh said. We were extremely low on fuel.
I said, “There’s one behind us, on the way that we came here. Maybe can turn back. Don’t see anything else on the way to Denali except just after Denali.”
But Rakesh didn’t want to turn and motored forward.
“In case that gas station is closed, we’re definitely going to be out of fuel!”
Rakesh was pushing our luck in an unknown territory – to be stranded on the highway with no mobile network connectivity at this hour of the night would be a perfect disaster – on the bright side, we still had daylight!

The Denali Visitor Centre was on the way, but Rakesh decided to fuel first. Thankfully, it was open – it was 8 pm; there was a little convenience store as well that we stepped into. 
“Do you have bear spray?” I asked.
“Yeah,” he said, without showing any interest.
“Can I see it?”
He pulled a pack from behind him. “50 dollars.”
“Just comes in one size?”
“Yeah.”
“Nothing smaller?”
“Smaller ones won’t be effective.”
It was a medium-sized can like the spray cans we have for cockroaches. It was packed inside a plastic casing. Since I didn’t really know the prices of these or the brands, I thought of checking it out in the Visitor’s Centre.

A little further down the road, there were a bunch of small shops in wooden-style cabins, stacked one beside the other – memento shops, some eateries, coffee shops, etc., with a wooden boardwalk connecting them all. It gave you the feeling of being in an older era – it was a refreshing change from what we are used to. And then a few meters away was another row of similar shops – this is a good place for buying small gifts and mementoes. You’ll find some of the activity operators also here in their little booths – Raghav took snaps of a few of them for research. All were closed at this hour.
I enquired in one of the larger gift shops for bear spray, and surprisingly, they also had it. 
“40,” the staff said. I wasn’t sure if this was the same size because it didn’t have the plastic wrapping, and it was just the can alone.
Raghav, in the meantime, was collecting activity pamphlets and tourist guides from these shops. We are in a digital era, but we still found these pamphlets useful. We stopped at the Black Bear Coffee House (a small joint) for coffee and pastries.

“Let’s check out the visitors centre and find a place for dinner before everything closes.”
The presence of daylight gives you the wrong perception of time! One thing we had seen was that even though the daylight goes into the night, most restaurants tend to close in regular hours – it’s not as if shops and eateries stay open all through the night. 

The bus depot, as expected, was closed, but the visitors’ centre was open – they also had a small shop for supplies. The same bear spray can, enclosed in plastic wrap, cost $60 here! This was the exact same one that we saw in the first shop, and over there, I was thinking that the visitor’s centre would have the lowest price!

“You can even drive in your vehicle into the Denali National Park,” the staff told us.
It was something I had read about during my rushed research online as well – but only up to a particular distance.

But first had to be dinner – we found a Thai place on Google ‘Denali Thai food’ restaurant, and we discovered it was a food truck, but the shutters were down when we arrived! They were also closed. Rakesh wasn’t having any Thai luck today. Raghav and Rakesh walked around the area and noticed some staff behind the truck – on request, they agreed to serve us! Apparently, they closed at 10 pm; so they had just pulled down the shutters when we came in.
We ordered quickly, and the food was served quickly as well – rice, veggies, and chicken – ample quantity. While we were ordering, another small group also came in search of food and placed an order.

At 2 pm, the captain smoothly landed the plane on the glacier – it was a super smooth landing, and you could now appreciate the benefits of the glides on the aircraft. Barely felt a bump!
I was the last to board and was the first to step out of the plane after the captain. The exit door had a counterintuitive way to operate – you had to lift the handle upwards to open. Safer that way!

(click on images to see it enlarged)

“Be back here in 10 minutes,” the captain said after we all stepped down.
My first question on the glacier was, “Can we see Denali?”
And the captain, looking straight ahead in the direction that the plane was in, said, “That’s the one – you see the peak clearly in the middle. That’s Denali.”
It was quite a distance away, but the tallest peak in the range was clearly visible. Many online posts had said it’s hard to get a clear view of Denali because it is often cloudy at that height. We were lucky – the clouds were just beside the peak but didn’t obstruct our view. 

The snow was soft and fluffy on the glacier, so your feet did sink into the snow, but not too far down either. In front of us was this vast track of snow, and further ahead, this track was flanked by the brown shades of the mountains, and above, a few clouds hovered in the blue skies. You could just stand and gaze at the sight – the sheer size of awesomeness in front and all around. 

With snow around, you can’t resist making snowballs. Raghav and Rakesh started targeting one another, and we also joined in. It was summer, and here we were surrounded by whiteness. While we were on the glacier, we had the chance to witness another flight landing gracefully near ours.

We took plenty of snaps and videos playing in the snow as well as with our propeller plane. We sat in the snow too, but do expect to get a little wet if you do that!

“The glacier we were on is a 3-mile glacier,” he said as we soared above. “The blue patches you see in the snow are not water but ice – ice after a long time looks blue.”
“There is no wildlife at this height. At lower levels, the snow is melting, and the green tundra is growing. In August, you’ll see blueberry shrubs here, and bears come up to feed on them.”
The captain steered the plane close to the mountain faces, but though we were moving at 150 mph, the land still moved very slowly below, indicating the sheer size of the mountain terrain.
“There are dead parts of the glacier where ice has melted, and the glacier is slowly receding. But there are hundreds of feet of ice below.” The depth of these glaciers can be deceiving.
As we came out of the Alaskan ranges and onto the plains, we saw what seemed like small homes in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by greenery or by water.

“The cabins you see on the swamps are owned by folks. They are next to the lake so that flights can land using floats on the lake, and during winter, the flights can land using retractable skis. Access to these by road is not possible. In some areas, 6-wheeler vehicles and ATVs can help. A lot of aeroplanes have been customised to deal with the terrain in Alaska and Canada – so innovations were done on flights specifically for this region – like modifying the landing wheel.”

The whole trip was around 1.5 hours, including the 15 minutes or so that we spent walking on the glacier.

In Talkeetna, you’ll find a separate bike trail that is off the road – even on highway roads, there’s a stretch of grass to separate the bike lane from the main road, making it a lot safer for bikers. And we also noticed that in some places, there was a “no motorised vehicles” road sign placed on that lane. We did see a few people cycling around. As we drove around, we saw a lot of white pollen floating around – I thought they were pollen, but they were most likely cottonwood seeds (cottonwood is a popular tree in this region).

It was past 3 pm by the time we left the place; we did have to search for lunch and went in search of a small street-side Thai restaurant that we spotted on Google maps while driving to the Talkeetna air taxi, but unfortunately, the place was closed – probably too late for lunch. There was one Thai fan in our group, and he wasn’t too pleased!

Searching for places open nearby, I noticed the Denali Brewing Company was still open – and they also had food. On the way, we came across the Birch syrup and wild harvest shop; we first stopped there at 3:30 pm. They have a tour available at periodic times, but we didn’t opt for that. There are sample treats made using birch syrup available – it feels a lot like liquid caramel. Birch syrup is produced from birch trees; think of it as an alternative to maple syrup – but birch syrup isn’t something you’d find commonly – was supposed to be something unique in Alaska, and I had this on my list of things to try out. 

We had two caramel lovers in the group – we tried a couple of scoops of the birch ice-cream, one plain and one with caramel topping added as well! The ice cream was good, and I picked a couple of small birch syrup bottles and also a couple of small birch toffee packs. There are different variations of the syrup – early run, mid run, late run, etc., with explanations on the difference in terms of taste (and the difference is based on the time of the harvest season when the sap is taken). The shopaholic in our group picked a handful of items. 

It was 4:15 when we reached the brewery for lunch; there were a couple of families with large dogs outside enjoying their meal. An interesting interior set-up – a mix of a pub on one side and a clothing outlet with its own merchandise on the other side. In between, you had tables with barrel-style seats for sitting! We tried their sweet potato fries, which were good, and also shared a veg pizza between the 4 of us – a wood-fired pizza loaded with green leaves.

Along the way, you come across boards that have a number – these were mile markers (mileposts) that mentioned which mile of the highway you were on. We were on Parks Highway at mile 95. Mile 99 is where we took a diversion to Talkeetna, our destination city. The road is called the Talkeetna Spur Road – again we had mile numbers on this road. Mile 14 is where the air taxi providers operate from.

As per my research, there are some pullout points from mile 9 to mile 13 onwards where, if lucky, you could spot Mt. Denali – this is the tallest mountain in North America. We didn’t spot the pullovers, but then neither did we stop to investigate, since we wanted to get to the Talkeetna Air Taxi place first. They say that not everyone who comes to Alaska gets to see Mt. Denali, since the peak is often obscured due to the weather. Today was a sunny day, but there were fluffy white clouds around, not clear skies.

Mile 14 is where you had the air taxi services. We arrived at the place with a board that read ‘Talkeetna Air Taxi,’ the operator we had signed up with. There are a couple of others as well, all offering similar packages. 
So the first thing they do is a check-in where they verify our booking and then take our weight.
The lady at the counter said, “Don’t worry, I won’t announce your weights.”
At least in our group, no one really would have cared if she did. 
“Do put on everything that you’d be carrying with you on the flight.”
Raghav left his jacket in the car since it was pretty sunny. But she advised him to bring one, and he got it from the car.
“It’s about 40 minutes in the air and then 15 minutes on the glacier.” She provided a brief description of what we’d experience, including the weather and temperature today. 
“You should be good with a jacket on the glacier.”
We were given a yellow card and told to proceed outside, where we could get our snowshoes. The card indicates which group you are in, the flight route you are taking, and whether your trip had a glacier landing.
“Don’t wait till your group is called to use the restroom. That’ll delay the flight. Make use of the restroom now itself while you wait.”

Beyond this check-in point was the tarmac; we could see a number of small flights, but first we had to get our snowshoes. There was a lady manning the stall, which had a selection in different sizes. Each of us got one; she showed us how to put it on, and we were all set – a sort of slip-on that you wear above your sneakers. I had heard of pollen allergies being common in the US – for the first time, I saw loads of the yellow specks floating in the air, almost like a thick cover of dust floating around! 
We noticed that the flights stationed on the tarmac had wheels, but they also had glides beside the wheels. 

It was time, and the young captain called our group around 1 pm – checked our card colours and took us close to our aeroplane.
“Do you all have mobile phones?”
So tuned we were that instinctively people started pulling out their phones to switch it to airplane mode, but he said, “Don’t worry – I won’t ask you to turn it off; it doesn’t bother my instruments!”
He gave a quick overview.
“Every seat has a headset. It’s a one-way communication – so you can hear what I say, but I won’t hear you through that. That would make it hard for me to focus on other communications going on while we fly.”
You obviously want window-side seats for this trip. “All seats are window side,” he announced.
“Who wants to get in first?”
Since seating didn’t matter, I just hung around to be the last one in.
“Good for you, you have the last seat, which has the maximum leg room,” he said, as I climbed up the short ladder. 
He got in after me and shut the door. There was a row of single-seaters on both sides of the flight; 12 passengers could sit, along with the captain and assistant, in the cockpit. 

Once in, he tested the headsets to check that all of us could hear. There is also a volume control knob on it.
“We’ll wait for a gap to take off.”
Flights were landing and taking off periodically, and as we waited, we could see one take off just before us. We were soon in the air and crossing the Talkeetna River. 
The captain gave a running commentary as we flew past areas.
“Talkeetna is a place where 3 rivers meet – Talkeetna river, Susitna river and the Chulitna.”
If you trace the Talkeetna River on the map, it flows into the Susitna, which runs all the way down the state into the Cook Inlet, which connects to the Gulf of Alaska, a part of the Pacific Ocean.
We crossed the water bodies, plains and swamps. 
The captain explained about Dall sheep, which were important for Alaskan natives. 
Some folks may find the view gets a little monotonous because from the height we were in, the flat terrain seems to look the same – you are just seeing water, sand and some greenery way below. Rakesh dozed off in a few minutes!

The captain announced our elevation as he steered the flight upwards. I woke up Rakesh as we headed into the mountain range.
“At 12000 feet and beyond is when an oxygen mask is required.”
There is the highest flight package that takes you around the peak of Denali, where it was mentioned that oxygen masks will be provided.
“The glaciers are at 4000 to 5000 feet above sea level. The mountains you see near are around 5000 feet higher. And then there is Denali, whose peak is at 20000 feet. No landing is possible there, but 17000 feet is where the highest possible landing was done. On a clear day, you can view the peak from the glaciers.”

We sort of got close to a height of 12,000 feet; Alaska has 17 of the 20 highest peaks in the USA! 
There were a few glaciers that the captain pointed out. He’d tilt the flight towards one side so that the passengers on that side would have a good view and promise that on the return leg he’d tilt the other way to give the passengers on the other side the same view. The captain also called out a couple of mountains – one was Mt. Hunter, whose peak was at 14000 feet.
We entered a gorge that the captain said is the Great Gorge of Ruth Glacier.
“Either side of the gorge are granite cliffs, and we’ll be landing on the glacier.”
It was an impressive sight – we were in the clouds, with a blue sky, looking down at the steep, brown, rugged walls, which were interspersed with plenty of white snow. 

Before heading back home, I had one more place on my list to check out, and since it was close by, we drove over to Ship Creek Overlook. We found a place to park the car and saw a few folks fishing in the waters – they were literally standing in the middle of the stream on some rocks and fishing; there was even a family that seemed to be enjoying their outing – the father relaxing on a chair they had brought along with them, son standing next to him, a couple of kids running on the road. It was almost midnight, but there was still daylight! I had picked this place because it was supposed to be a point for salmon runs. Right now, we couldn’t see any fish, but just above the water, there were plenty of birds (seagulls) swooping low to the water and then taking off – they did this repeatedly – seemed like they were hoping to pick some fish from the water. The salmon run is a migration event in which salmon move from one location to another. And if you happen to be in the right place at the right time, you will see hundreds of salmon swimming in the water. This is also a bountiful time for predators of salmon – easy to catch them in bulk.

As per my rudimentary research, we were very early in the season for salmon runs – another month or so later is the optimal time. We enjoyed the midnight setting with the background noise of water, as well as the whooshing sound of birds flying around. As we stood on a boardwalk looking at the seagulls, a random stranger who seemed a little suspicious asked us, “Do you have seagulls in India?” and walked away. Your body is in a state of heightened alertness at this hour when outside, and random strangers who seem to move or behave awkwardly make you feel uneasy. 

Sunset was said to be at 11:44 pm, but even at 12:30 am, there was still daylight – not bright and sunny, but more like the early morning daylight. In our neighbouring home, the kids were still playing in their backyard – obviously making the best use of the extended day!
Moorthy tried to stream the World Cup cricket highlights on TV, and I gave him company for a while, but sleep was hitting me – I jumped into the bottom bunk bed and dozed off almost immediately.

Sunday

The plan was that if we were up early in the morning, we’d hit Beluga point again for Moorthy to test his old professional camera. And coincidentally, both of us were up by 5 am. The other two were sound asleep, and we tiptoed out of the house to be welcomed by bright daylight. 
We revisited Potter Marsh and Beluga Point.
“The mist is better today.”
“It has cleared a bit, but it’s still there.”
“Yeah. Maybe this time of the year, it’s usually there.” There was this odd haziness around which you may faintly notice in the pictures – a mystery whose answer we would discover later.

Moorthy took a lot of shots with different settings, and we drove further down the Old Seward Highway – the scenic road is quite a lovely long stretch, but we decided to turn back since we would anyway do this route later in our trip. There were numerous clouds that added to the scenic beauty of the landscape (click images to expand). 

In search of breakfast, we landed at around 7:30 am in the same strip mall where the Indian restaurant Taste of India was located. There was a joint called Heidi’s – it was an American joint that was surprisingly fairly large. And there were already people having breakfast – a good sign, since we had come here based solely on Google reviews. The breakfast menu was typical of what you’d find (pancakes, waffles, omelettes, benedicts, etc.), but they did have a fair amount of variations in terms of meat. They even had omelette with Reindeer meat; this is something common in many Alaskan restaurants. We ordered a few items for takeaway and headed back home.

Our Airbnb place had plenty of utensils for cooking and serving a feast, including a microwave, dishwasher, and fridge. The food we brought was good, especially the omelettes, which had ample veggie stuffing. Only the French toast was disappointing because it was overcooked and slightly burnt in some areas. 
“You guys brought a lot of food,” Raghav commented.
“For all of us.”
“But I don’t have breakfast.”

We had forgotten that when ordering – but the one thing he needs, though, is coffee. He tried to make coffee using the coffee maker in the house, along with some packets of coffee and milk powder that he found in the drawers. But he didn’t like what he came up with. 
We ate all the food, including Raghav, and Rakesh ensured that we disposed of all the garbage in the big bin on the lawn before heading out.
“There’s not much cleaning they have to do now; we’ve already cleaned the place.”
“Can’t ask for a reduction in the cleaning fee.”
The cleaning fee charged in the Airbnbs when doing the bookings were pretty high. The property’s daily rate without it may appear low, but once you factor that in, it significantly hikes up the average daily rate.

The drive to Talkeetna is about 2.5 hours; we started around 9:30 am. Raghav kept searching Google Maps for a coffee shop on the way, and he found one called Jitters. It turned out to be quite a find – their tagline is “Where Coffee is an Art!” 

Thankfully, they had 4 sizes of coffee cups – the smallest was 8 oz (nearly 250 ml); I’m not a coffee lover, and so didn’t pick anything – instead, I got an empty cup and mixed a little from what Raghav and Rakesh bought. What’s unique here is that they have a bunch of syrups that you can ask them to add to your drink – and they have a lot of choices in this. They have a very lively setup. Even their cup has a nice colourful image of their logo. Whatever those two added as toppings gave the coffee a nice taste – even I liked the coffee, and the coffee connoisseur in our group was also very appreciative of it. A good cafe that’s about a 30-minute drive north of Anchorage.

Potter Marsh features a lengthy boardwalk that provides several viewing points, allowing for a closer look at the marsh. It’s sort of an odd location – the highway is just beside the marsh. There were a few other people on the boardwalk, and we stopped at many points to see if we could spot wildlife. This place is known for it, but we only spotted a few birds – this still is a lovely walkway; there’s a stream running under the boardwalk, and after a point, it is just the sounds of nature that you hear. Lot of great spots for taking snaps here. The history of this wetland dates back to 1917, when it was accidentally created during the construction of the Alaskan railroad.

Right at the end of the boardwalk was a small rectangular area for resting. An old man was seated on the left, and beside him was a stand with binoculars set up for viewing – presumably was his.
He commented, “Take a look through it. You can see a bald eagle watching its little ones on the tree.”

There were a lot of trees at a distance, and yes, we could spot it – the eagle was sitting on a branch of a tree at the top; the man said it was the mom; it looked around once in a while, but otherwise, perfectly still. Without the binoculars, I couldn’t see it even though I knew the approximate area where it was supposed to be.
“How did you spot it?” I asked him.
“It’s hard now. But it was easy to spot when the place was barren a few months ago. I saw it then and so knew where it was.”
We chit-chatted with the man for a while till another group came along with kids. He was a volunteer and spent a lot of time in Potter Marsh. “There was a bear we saw a few days earlier in the morning.”
“Oh,” sounded exciting.

This definitely was a place you could come to daily to spend time watching nature go about its business. 

As we returned to the boardwalk, we noticed a diversion – it seemed like an exit, but no one else was taking it. There was a board that talked about bears and moose in Alaska’s backyards. Most of Alaska, the board said, is moose country, and these moose are huge – can be as tall as 7 feet and weigh 1600 pounds! The board warned us about danger signs to look out for if you spot a moose – lowered head, stomping hooves, clicking teeth and licking lips, the board said might mean the moose is going to charge. Yield to the moose – it weighs half a ton!
It was an interesting place to have positioned this educational board – just as we were stepping off the boardwalk into what looked like a forest area with no idea what was ahead of us!
“Maybe there’ll be a bear here?”
Fortunately, there wasn’t – and the forest stretch ended quickly – it was just a short distance, like a mini-trail in a forest that took us to the back side of the parking lot. 

Our next stop was a little further down the same highway – the Beluga Point. Belugas are a type of small whale – and this point was named so because Belugas do frequent the place, but this wasn’t the month for them. You’ll find that on the Alaskan highways, there are viewpoints set up so that folks can park their vehicles, enjoy the view, and not disturb the traffic. The railway line was just beside the parking spot fence, and some people had hopped across the fence and past the railway line to step on the rocky mass protruding into the water. There were two large rocky bodies – the first one was easily accessible, but the second one wasn’t.
“The only way seems like is to go into the water and enter through that small path over there.”
Except for the 2 people who were already there, no one else was attempting to get there. 
The view was spectacular; we spent some time clicking snaps. 

“There is some mist on the mountains in the distance – can’t get a clear shot,” Moorthy said. He was testing out his old professional camera that he brought along on the trip – think of the ones where you carry separate lens attachments.
“Maybe it’s the time of the day.”
“We should come early in the morning,” he said and continued changing the settings to see what gave him a better shot. We strolled further down to touch the waters.

Skipping!

“It is cold.” Sunny above but cold in the water.
Rakesh started throwing small pebbles on the water (in a sidearm action) to try to get them to bounce off the water’s surface. I later learnt that this is called ‘skipping stones’ or ‘stone skipping or skimming’. There are even stone-skipping competitions! Very soon, the other two got into a contest with Rakesh to test who could make the stone skip multiple times before it sank into the water. We spent 30 minutes in the area before moving along.

It was 9 pm, but the city was soaked in daylight – it just didn’t feel like the night! Seeing the time, we knew we’d have to find a restaurant soon – we always left the restaurant selection to Rakesh and Raghav since they picked good ones – they found a Mexican one called Tequila 61 in downtown Anchorage, gave us the chance to check out downtown as well. 

It was 10 pm when we started dinner with daylight around! We had nachos (which were on the house and quite yummy), fish tacos, a veggie fajita (that you could assemble by adding the ingredients), and a lime-based dessert. The food and ambience were good; before leaving, I went to the restroom, and even the restroom had a unique design, with the walls decorated with plenty of pennies.

At 11 pm, we were back on the street, and daylight was still around; most shops had closed except one. The board seemed to indicate it was a small grocery shop. While the guys stepped into the car, I called out, “Hey, let’s just see what’s there in the shop and go.”
Raghav joined me. There weren’t many people in the area, but there were a couple of old men stumbling along whom we bypassed and avoided making eye contact with, though it sounded like one of them was muttering something. Not knowing what state they were in and considering the time of day, we did feel a little uneasy, but then, since there was still daylight, we felt okay venturing around.

As soon as we stepped into the shop, we knew this wasn’t your usual grocery store – this seemed like a cigarette shop, more specifically, a vape (e-cigarette) shop – plenty of flavours and products here.

Next stop was our Airbnb home in a residential neighborhood; there was no caretaker or human to deal with – we had the code to open the electronic lock, and that was it. The place was clean and spacious – a cosy 3-bedroom independent home. It had everything you’d need even for an extended stay – from a fridge, microwave, a decent television and even a washing machine in the bathroom. The only drawback we could call out was that there was just one bathroom. One bedroom had a bunk bed as well. There was also a backyard, which we had access to, where there was a small hut or, you could say, a large kennel.
“Maybe that’s home for a bear?”
It sure could accommodate a bear.
One of the benefits of going as a group and renting Airbnb’s is that you get spacious places, and the cost per person turns out to be lower than what you’d pay in hotels. 

It was late in the evening, and we surely had to plan something by now for tomorrow. There were a couple of things that stood out from my rudimentary research – Denali National Park and flight-seeing tours. Raghav narrowed down choices for the flight tour while I was digging for info on Denali. 

The plan

Our rough itinerary was to drive tomorrow from Anchorage to Talkeetna (a 2-hour drive) and then, later in the day, continue northwards to Denali (a 3-hour drive). Talkeetna was a city where a couple of operators conducted flight tours – each of them had a range of options that differed in terms of the flight path and duration of the flight – the longer it is, the more expensive, and they all have one route that goes around the summit of Mt. Denali (the tallest mountain in North America); since this one goes to about 20,000 feet, it will be the only one where they’d say you should be in good physical condition and will need to use oxygen masks. All these flights offer the option to add a glacier landing, which costs an extra $130 per person. Basic research did say that the glacier landing is a must-add. So that was finalized – Raghav picked the Talkeetna Air Taxi operator and looked at availability for 4 folks for the morning or afternoon. Some packages (routes) didn’t have seats but we did still have a few options. The group consensus was to choose a basic tour with the add-on of a glacier landing. Raghav booked the tickets, and since the glacier landing happens on a glacier inside the Denali National Park, you are required to buy a pass to the park (which is valid for a few days). He made all the bookings online.

From my research, I found there was a bus tour of Denali National Park – but on their website, the bookings were available from Wednesday onwards; but for Monday and Tuesday it showed there were no seats available. 
“Is it in so much demand that all are booked out?”
“But it shows the next 2 days as being available.”
And so Moorthy called the Denali National Park to confirm.
“There should be tickets available for sure. Let me check,” the attendant said. “That’s strange. I’m getting a system error.”
He asked us to call the Denali bus depot. Moorthy called and enquired about the Tundra Wilderness Tour. 
“Are there tickets available?”
“I don’t know; there may or may not be.”
“What are the timings of the tour?”
“They are random.”
“By when do we have to buy the tickets?”
“You have to come in person to buy the tickets,” the guy responded. 
That was one of the weirdest customer service calls!  
“Haha, probably he was an intern – I don’t know how things work; buses go randomly whenever they want to and wherever they want to!”

“So we should book our stay tomorrow around Denali.”
Rakesh conducted the research while Raghav skimmed through the booklets we collected at the airport. After discussing options, they booked accommodation in a place called Cantwell – this city was a 30-minute drive from the Denali National Park visitor centre.

This was turning into a trip where everything was decided at the last minute. We only knew where we’d stay the next day and had no plan for anything beyond that! With Sunday planning done, we stepped out to cover some spots that I had marked as part of the plan for Anchorage. But before that, we headed to the Walmart super center, which was 10 minutes away, to get some supplies for the trip. 
The item I was most interested in was the bear spray. The staff said it would be in the sporting goods section, but it wasn’t there. 
“Costco will have stock. We’ll get it in 2 days,” the staff said.
There was a Costco nearby, but the closing time as per Google was 6 pm on weekends, and it was unlikely we’d make it.

The drive

Our first real destination, as per the plan, was Potter Marsh – to get there, we drove on Highway 1, which is also called the Seward Highway. As we neared the destination, we saw a large water body on our right – this is an inlet of the Pacific Ocean that extends all the way to Anchorage. Beyond the still waters were mountains, with some of them having a sprinkling of snow on top. Between the highway and the water inlet was the Alaskan railway track. To the left of the highway was greenery and smaller mountains (part of the Chugach State Park). This is a highway that you should definitely drive down if you get a chance – with all of nature’s colours surrounding it. 

An alternative way to experience this is to take the train. It was an option I’d considered – taking the train from Anchorage to Denali on the train, but then, the problem would be for the return; we’d have to do the train again, and we’d lose the flexibility we had with a car.

Our destination for now was Potter’s Marsh, and so we stuck to the plan without getting diverted by the scenic Seward Highway!